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We're flying United on 777s the whole way. Denver to D.C., D.C. to London. We were hoping to be able to carry on our backpacks, since everything we need to live on for a month is packed in them, but they made us check them as baggage. The flight from DIA to Dulles in Washington D.C. was about 3 hours long. Combined with the 2 hour time difference, the first leg changed the clock 5 hours. I like the 777s. There's two walking aisles with two seats on each side and 5 seats across in the center part. Megan and I are lucky enough to get booked on the two end seats for each leg. On the back of each seat is a little flat panel color TV screen with personal headphones, so each person has a choice of a couple of movies, or some other shows like the Discovery channel. They also had just music. One channel of the "music" was the cockpit radio communications channel. I though that one was pretty fun to listen to. They seems to spend most of the time talking with various control towers trying to figure out which altitude to fly at to avoid the turbulence.
We landed in Dulles and met Laura. She was originally going on a different flight than us to London, but checked with the counter and there was room on the same flight as us. We're already sick of flying. That's not a good sign since the long part has yet to come.
The flight from Dulles to London took about 6 hours. Since we're flying against the sun, it's an overnight flight. It's already been exciting. They woke everyone up on the place twice asking if there was a doctor on the plane. Apparently some woman passed out in the bathroom and they could wake her up. It's not like they can make an emergency landing out here over the ocean.
I had a hard time sleeping so I ended up watching TV and listening to the music the whole way. I was on the left side of the plane so I could see Hale-Bopp very well. The stars were very bright and clear out over the ocean.
4/1 - London
The plane landed pretty much on time, 7:30am. It was now 11:30pm Colorado time. We made it through immigration and customs without a hitch. Fortunately Heathrow airport has a subway stop right at the airport. I figured that if I could figure out the New York subways, then London can't be any more complicated. I found out that they actually were quite a bit more complicated. We were standing around trying to figure out how to get to our hostel and there was an announcement over the intercom. It said that there had been some sort of a bomb threat and everyone needed to evacuate immediately. Nobody seemed panicked and just started filing out of the exit, so we followed the crowd. We didn't know this at the time, but this sort of thing happens all the time in London.
We waited outside of the subway stop (called the Underground or "Tube") for about an hour before they let everyone back in. Most of the crowd was commuters since it was Monday morning. We were tired, but we weren't in any hurry, so we waited until the crowd got through.
After some help from a very nice Underground employee, we did find our way to the hostel -- The City of London Hostel. Megan had called before we left and reserved this one for two nights. We checked in and decided that we were sooo tired that we couldn't do anything except go to sleep and try to get over this jet lag. I don't think there was any way that we could stay up until night time. So we found our bunks and crashed for a few hours.
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| Megan & Laura in front of City of London Hostel |
The beds were these funny triple decker bunk beds. My room had 5 of these and I think it was one of the bigger rooms. Megan & Laura's room only had 3 (sleeping 9). My bunk was the middle. There were also lockers at the bottom to keep your backpacks, etc. My bunk was the middle one that you see here. |
| Triple Decker Bunks in London Hostel |
The hostel is in the "City of London" area of London, which is the central part. It used to be the entirety of London until it grew so big that it engulfed it's suburbs. St. Pauls cathedral was gigantic and right around the corner from the hostel. I decided not to pay the money to take the tour, although I'm sure it would have been spectacular. |
| St. Paul's Cathedral in London |
This is a close-up of the statue that can be seen at the base of the cathedral above. It gives you an idea of how big this place really was. |
| St. Paul's Cathedral looking toward the hostel |
After lunch we went to the other end of the park and looked at Kensington Palace where Princess Di lives. It was pretty boring, so we went back to the hostel.
For dinner we took the tube to Picadilly Circus area of town on the advice of the hostel worker. Picadilly Circus is a big area with lots of neon. It reminded me of Times Square in New York. We found a restaurant listed in the Let's Go book that was pretty cheap (cost is the biggest factor for meals). I had spaghetti with meat sauce and a coke for about £3.
That night back in the hostel we talked about where we were going the next day. We decided not to head to the Lake District in northern England as originally planned, but to go to Ireland instead. Hopefully, we'll do less backtracking that way.
4/3 - Dublin
We ate our free breakfast, checked out of the hostel and headed for the YHA travel agent to figure out how to get to Ireland. We could take a bus & ferry for about £35, or fly for about £51. We opted to fly and booked a flight that was leaving in about 3 hour. So we called the Avalon house in Dublin and booked a room for that night. We flew on Aer Lingus, and Irish airline. The flight was about an hour long from London to Dublin. We took the bus to the hostel. We got 3 beds in a four bed dorm for £11 each. The other guy in our room is named Rick. he was from Kansas City and now lives in Lawrence, KS. He's traveling in Britain & Ireland for 6-12 months on his inheritance money. He recommended the Haggis backpacker tour in Scotland. It also mentions that tour in the Let's Go book and also the travel agent in London said it was great. We'll probably do that for a week or so when we make our way over to Scotland.
We settled into our room and went to get some dinner. It was about 9pm by then and about the only thing we could find open within walking distance was a little cafe. I got cottage pie & salad. The salad was just lettuce, carrots, and tomatoes with a scoop of cole-slaw on top. The cottage pie was terrible. I should stick to chips and sandwiches. We went to Flannery's pub after that and I had my first Guiness in Ireland. Very tasty. I was tired from our travel day, so I headed back and went to sleep at 10. Megan and Laura ended up staying up until 4am talking to the locals in the pub and the night watchmen at the hostel.
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| The Avalon House hostel in Dublin |
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Since Megan and Laura stayed up so late, they took a nap while I walked down to the Guiness brewery for a tour. I probably could have taken a bus, but walking saves you money and you set to see more of the town that way too. The tour was £3 and you don't actually get to see the brewery. You walk around their "hop store" and read about the history of the area, and look at old brewing equipment. At the end you see a 15 minute movie and then get a free pint at the bar downstairs. I was surprised to learn that at that particular brewery they brew a lot of other beers on contract from other companies. One of them is budwieser. In the pub there, I met a woman from Oregon whose husband works at HP. She had been driving around Ireland with her sister for 2 weeks. I asked her where we should go, and she recommended Doolin & Dingle as her favorite spots. I think we will try to get to Dingle after Killarney. |
| The Guiness Hop store at the brewery in Dublin |
That night we went to the Temple Bar district, which is supposed to be the hot spot in town. It's Friday night so there's a lot of people about. There's a band playing in the square with 5 bagpipe players, 2 snare drums, and 1 big drum. It was a lot of fun to listen to them entertain everyone for free. They seemed to be pretty good. We stopped at one of the bars down there and had a pint. The place looked a lot like the County Cork back in Ft. Collins. After that we tried to find a blues band at a couple of the places that the pizza waitress had told us about, but they weren't playing at either place, so we went back to Flannery's where we had been the night before. There was no place to sit down, so I didn't stay long. I went home to bed and Megan was in a couple of hours later. I don't like a place that's too crowded to sit and talk. Laura stayed out until 6am, but seemed to regret it the next morning. Laura said she met some guy that night who she told we where heading to Cork next. He said Cork was a dump and asked why we would want to go there. She said her boyfriend had family from there so we wanted to see it. The guys says "oh dear. God love him"
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In the morning I would often take a little walk around the town before everyone else got up and we started our day. St. Steven's Green was a nice park just down the street from the hostel. I learned at the Guiness brewery that the whole park was donated to the city a long time ago by the Guiness family. |
| A rooster that lives in St. Steven's Green |
We had three hours to kill before the bus left, so we sat in a coffee shop and wrote some postcards. There was a little outside mall next to the coffee shop. I thought it was funny that there was a jewelry store in the mall that would pierce basically anything for £1. Megan's asked the guy why it was that cheap, and he said that he didn't use a gun. Just pushes it through wherever (ear, nose, navel, etc.) It didn't seem like a very sanitary place.
The bus trip was four hours long. We forgot to eat lunch before we got on, so we bought some junk food at the half way stop for lunch. Bad idea. The scenery on the ride was great, but my stomach hurt the whole ride.
I wish we had decided to stop at a town called Cashel where a big castle is. It was on the way to Cork and looked pretty neat, but since we didn't want to backtrack, we just kept on going.
Cork looks to be pretty boring. We walked from the bus stop to the hostel and checked in. It's called the Campus House. There's no breakfast, and no Beuro de Change, but it's only £7 per night. The place is pretty much just like an old house that the people turned into a hostel. It probably would have been a B&B like the rest of the houses seemed to be on that block, but I don't think the proprietors felt like fixing it up or cooking for people. We're in an 8 bed room with 3 Aussies who have been traveling Europe and Asia for 9 months now. They had some pretty good stories. Most people in the hostels seemed to be in their twenties, but we've also seen kinds and people somewhere in their 50s. The Australians were quite friendly, but very loud. They seems like quite a bunch of partiers. They invited us out to a club with them that night, but we ended up being too tired after dinner to feel like doing anything. Once again it was 9pm before we really got going out in our search of dinner. We walked around for at least an hour just looking for someplace decent. We ended up going to McDonald's. On the way back to the hostel we found a little convenience store and bought some cereal and milk for breakfast. On the way home from the convenience store we ended up walking by about 50 kids (15-20 looking) all drinking beer on the sidewalk. There was trash everywhere. We didn't really feel threatened, but the whole scene was a little creepy.
4/6 - Killarney
We got up today planning on just having a catch up day writing letter, doing laundry, etc. After breakfast we realized it was Sunday and both the Launderettes and the post office were closed. So with nothing else to do, we decided to move on. There was nothing in Cork we really wanted to see anyway. From what we saw of the city yesterday, it's a pretty dumpy town. The hostel is not that great either. The guy that helps run the place gives Megan and Laura the creeps.
We were planning on going to Dingle next, but the last bus had already left, so we checked on Killarney. There was one leaving in two hours, so we left for the bus station. I felt kinda bad about leaving after we had told the hostel that were going to stay another night, but they didn't take our credit card number and we didn't pay ahead. They'll probably find others.
It was £8.50 from Cork to Killarney. The bus ride was about two hours and the scenery was again just beautiful.
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We got to Killarney and checked in to Neptune's hostel. It's very nice. They had double rooms available, so Megan and I got one for £9 ea. Laura got the dorm for £6.50. I'm glad we decide to take the bus here. Even though we're sick of traveling every day and kinda feel like finding a place to stay for a couple of days, Killarney is much nicer that Cork.
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| Neptune's hostel in Killarney |
So we went to the pub with an Australian we met on the bus here who was traveling alone. There was a place highly recommended in the book called Yer Mans. Yer Mans was great. It had candle lighting, a peat fire in the corner, sawdust on the floor. Very cozy and comfortable for talking. We learned a lot about Australia that night. The Austrailians name is Suzie. She is working in some sort of elementary school in London while she's traveling about. She told a story about the first time she had to teach PE class and the kids needed to change into shorts. She told them that they needed to take off their pants and get into shorts. The kids all hesitated and didn't seem to want to do it. So the second time she was quite stern and told them to take off their pants. The kinds proceded to take off their pants and underwear! Some were so upset that they started to cry. She found out later that pants are called trousers in England and underwear is called pants.
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There was a little dog who followed me the whole ride down to the castle. The boatsman was about to tell me that that the trip would be canceled if I was the only one, but at the last minutes two more biker showed up. There was one girl from Canada and one from Tasmania. Both were staying at Neptune's like us.
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| Ross Castle in Killarney National Park |
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| Ross Castle in Killarney National Park |
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| The Lakes in Killarney National Park |
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| Me on the boat ride in Killarney |
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| The Lakes in Killarney National Park |
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| At the top of the "Mountain" pass in Killarney |
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| A little lake in the mountains |
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| Why they say Ireland is sooo green |
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| sheep sheep everywhere |
That night we went back to Yer Mans. I ended up talking to this Englishman from the Lake District. He was unemployed and a part time student, so he said he was pretty much a bum. He gets government assistance. He had a pretty thick accent, but I could get most of what he said. I think maybe I'm getting used it now.
Once when I was up at the bar a fight almost broke out and they had to drag some guy out of the place yelling. The whole place isn't very big so pretty much everyone saw what happened. The old guy sitting next to me at the bar said that he used to be like that when he was younger before he got some sense. I couldn't understand everything he was saying so I had to ask him to repeat it. He realized I was American and said "Oh, you're American. Am I talking too fast for you?" I said "No, not too fast, I just miss a lot because of the accent.". He said "Yeah, we all do. This guy next to me, I don't know what the hell he's saying" I laughed.
We're planning to head to Dingle tomorrow.
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| Megan, me, and Laura waiting for the bus |
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We got to Dingle and checked into the Grapevine hostel. Not as fancy as the others we've stayed in. It's another old house turned into a hostel, but it's a lot more professional than the Cork hostel was. £7 per night.
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| The Grapevine hostel in Dingle |
After that we went over to Dick Macs for a pint. Dick Macs is not only a pub, but a full fledged leather store. It only sits about 10 people. Funny little place, but nice. Laura didn't feel so good after her hamburger, so we went back to the Grapevine and he went to bed early. Megan and I stayed up and played some gin rummy with an Australian who was also staying at the hostel and then went back to Dick Macs for a bit. The same people that were there earlier were still there, but now they were all pissed. One guy had a guitar and the whole place was singing.
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One of the cool things about Dingle is that it's one of the only towns in Ireland where Galic is still spoken by many of the town's reisdents. Most of the signs in Dingle are in Galic. |
| A Galic Guiness sign outside a pub |
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| Dingle is another seaport |
We decided just to take a short boat trip to see Fungi the dolfin. We were a little surprised how touristy everything is, but at least the dolfin trip was only £6 each. They took us out in the bay around Dingle where Fungi lives. Other dolfins come and go with the seasons, but they say Fungi stays all year round and has his whole life. The boat was about a 30 ft. wooden fishing boat looking thing. They tooled around for an hour or so kind of chasing the poor dolfin around. You get your money back if anyone on the boat doesn't see the dolfin, so they make damn sure you get a look at him. A couple of times he came right up beside the boat. Megan felt sorry for the thing getting chased by boats all day long.
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| Fungi the Dolphin lives in Dingle |
After the Fungi trip is was almost time for dinner, so we went to the grocery and got fixens for hot beef sandwhiches with mashed potatoes and gravy. Another excellent and cheap home cooked meal with leftovers for tomorrow too!
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We went to a pub called O'connors that night. It was a nice little place with a tradidional Irish band playing. One guy was playing the Irish bagpipes which are somewhat different than their Scottish counterparts. It was a lot of fun there and seemed to be one of the more crowded and hoppin places in town. |
| A traditional Irish band's tour bus |
We got in a conversation with a couple of English women who were practically eco-terrorists. They were members of a group which tried to get media attention to certain areas that were being logged. They would build little villages in the tree tops with tree houses connected by rope bridges. The authorities would then have chase them out the trees before the area could be cleared. Who knows, maybe there were full of it, but it was sure an interresting story.
4/10 - Galway
We talked last night and decided to go to Galway today instead of back to Dublin right away. If we had gone to Dublin, we would have more time in Scotland, but the Ireland part of the trip would be pretty much over, and we weren't sure if we were ready for that yet. Ireland's been pretty fun.
In Dingle you have to buy bus tickets on the bus itself since there's no bus station like there is in bigger cities.
The trip to Galway was very pretty the whole way. After the switch over at Tralee, the road ceases to be extremely bumpy and windey (as it had been the whole way so far) and you can enjoy the ride much more. The whole trip took about 5 hours with a 45 minute stop over in Tralee and host £14.
We got into Galway about 5pm. We had check on Salmon Wier and Great Western hostels but both were full already since it was the weekend. We ended up getting dorm style rooms in the Kinlay House for two nights.
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The Kinlay house was actually very nice even if it was our third choice. It is very much like a big hotel except with bathrooms down the hall and 4 bunkbeds per room. At least the rooms were co-ed and we could all three be in the same room. |
| Kinlay House hostel in Galway |
The first night there were only 2 others (both men) in the 8 bed room besides us three. The fewer the better. One of them was quite smelly.
I got up this morning around 8, had my free toast and juice breakfast and we switched rooms. During breakfast this morning the hostel people asked us if it would be OK if we moved rooms. We said that it would be fine as long as those smelly guys weren't moving with us. I took a shower and it was about time for lunch. We endedup eating at Ming Garden because it was a little cheaper and seemed to have a better selection. I had Sechwan Beef and spring rolls. It was excellent for about £4.50. It seems that the best food is Pizza, Chineese, and American fast food.
I went and checked on travel and checked on hostels while the girls went shopping. A plane from Dublin to Edinburgh would be about £130 so we'll probably ferry over. They said bus or train and ferry would only be about £43, which is much better for the budget.
I bought some Docs sandles here today. We all bought a pair. I got some brown sandles for £60, but with the 20% discount we get for tax it should be £75. Pretty good since US price is about $110.
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| Ben & Claudia in Galway |
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| Playing soccer in Galway |
![]() | Today we planned to go out to the Aran Islands. They're three islands sitting about 15 miles outdside of Galway in Galway Bay. £12 gets the ferry boat over, and £3 for the bus ride out to the pier at Rossaveal which is about an hour bus from Galway. The island we went to is the biggest and is called Inishmore. We decided after got there that we really should have stayed the night so we could have toured on bikes around the island. The boat trip over was pretty cool. Since were were still in the bay, the water was very calm. I expected some bigger waves in the ocean. The boat held 300 people and must have had some huge engines because we practically got up on plane. I should have asked how fast we went because it was a lot faster than I expected. |
| Chris the salty sailor on the way to Aran Islands |
As it was we bought a bus tour for £5 each. The bus was pretty much a minivan. Since its low tourist season we had this bus to ourself. There were about 5-10 other busses which took the other people away.
The first and most spectacular stop on the bus tour was Dun Aengus. A stone fort build in the 1st century BC on the edge of a cliff. I'm not sure who built it or who they were fighting, but the view was amazing! The walls that were left standing was 28 feet thick which is probably why it's still here today. That was probably the coolest part of our trip so far and made the pricy boat ride worth the money. After Dun Aengus we saw some old church ruins, watched the seals hang out on the beach and want back to the boat. We only had a few hours on the island, but when we saw the white sand beaches we wish we had longer.
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| Megan at Dun Aengus |
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| A view from Dun Aengus |
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| The entrance to Dun Aengus |
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| The cliffs at Dun Aengus |
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| A view over the cliffs at Dun Aengus |
For the most part the island was one big rock. There are rocks everywhere and pretty much the whole island is divided into 1/4 acre sections by those morterless stone walls that are everywhere. Even though everything is rock, they're managed to grow grass on most of the plots by laying seaweed and letting it compost. There really aren't many trees except in the biggest town because of the salt water in the air. I think I got sunburned today it was so hot on the island.
We were pretty hungry when we got back and were going to go to Chicago Joes again, but we found a little baked potatoe place called Couch Potatas. Good stuff and a lot of it for about £4. Couch Potatas is the first place we've found that has real lettuce salad with ranch dressing even!
4/13 - Dublin
Today is going to be a travel day. We got up and cought the 10:30 bus to Dublin. We thought about going somwhere else, but we needed to go back to Dublin to look for Megan's passport. For some reason the bus tickets were only £6/person. I didn't ask any questions. The trip was about 3.5 hours and we checked into the Avalon house again.
Megan's passport was there so we were quite relieved. Megan and I got a private room this time and Laura got a bunk. The double was £12 each. We had dinner at the Bad Ass Cafe. Finally we're on a streak of finding some good food. Or maybe we're just getting used to it here. The girls had hamburgers and I got some fancy mac & cheese. With sharing a dessert it was about £6 per person. Big citties have better food, but it cost more for it. I suppose it's worth it. We had a couple of pints at Flanneries with Brian the bouncer at the Avalon house and had a good time. He knows four languages. English, Galic, French, and German. He's studying law in school. I called my mom tonight. Kitty is doing fine. Boy those calls to the US sure suck up with calling card.
Today we checked out of the hostel and headed for the USIT office in Dublin That's the student travel office. It was a big place really. We needed to find a way to get to Edinburgh. I first checked on ferry/train trip which would be about £37 and would take all night on the train. Then we checked on plane tickets and found that we could get one way tickets for £49, but the next flight was not until tomorrow. We booked it and changed our hostel reservation on Edinburgh to the 15th.
![]() | Avalon house was full, so we had to book at another. Ashfield house. It's not in the Let's Go book, but the Avalon recommended it. £10 for a 6 person dorm room. |
| Ashfield House hostel in Dublin |
We had lunch at the Bad Ass again and then took a nap. Bad Ass doesn't have the same double meaning over here that it would in the states. They use arse to mean butt.
After my nap I walked around a bit through Trinity College and O'Connol street. Trinity was a beautiful place right in the middle of a downtown Dublin.
My throat has been sore for a couple of days now. Maybe I'll try to stay out of the smokey bars tonight if I can.
4/15 - Edinburgh
The Ashfield house has a lot of potential with a big kitchen, and lounge with big TV, but the place is not kept up and run very well. It didn't smell very good in the stairwell and the staff was not very helpfull compared to other places we've been. At most of the other hostels the staff would be extremely helpfull in anything you wanted from giving directions or recommending a place to eat.
The breakfast at Ashfield house was pretty much terrible. The rolls were stale and the OJ and coffee was very bitter. I was the only one who ate. We caught the #41 bus to the airport for £1. It was a double decker so I decided to take the opportunity to ride on the top. I tried to get my VAT refund (that's the big tax refunds for tourists) taken care of but they said wait until we leave London to do that, not in Ireland.
We were starving at the Airport, so we grabbed a whopper at the BK. After we ate, we found a Pizza Hut upstairs and wished we would have eaten there instead. We've been having a craving for pizza lately. There's just not much of it around here.
The flight from Dublin to Edinburgh was about 45 mins and for £49 we thought it was a great deal. The "Under 26" cards we got in London have saved us a lot of money so far.
When the place arrived in Scotland, we took the bus to downtown where our hostel is. Edinburgh is a very cool looking city with the castle on the hill overlooking everything and huge stone churches nd bridges. We're stayning at the High Street hostel. It's £9.50 per person and only have single sex bunk rooms, but otherwise it's a cool place.
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| Edinburgh Castle |
That night we did a little shopping and ate dinner at a Pizza Hut we found! After that we went to a cyber cafe called the Electric Frog to write some email. 1/2 hour for £2. I can write a little note to everyone in that amount of time.
We wanted to go out and have soe fun, but found the town pretty dead on a Tuesday night. We did manage to find a pub with some live music. I was still felling a bit like a cold was coming on, so I just had lemonade and went back early. Lemonade over there is something like lemon syrup and soda water. A little bit like squirt, but not as sour. It good, but nothing like the lemonade we have in the US.
More Journal Entries later
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| Megan reading in the park in Edinburgh |
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| The hills around Loch Ness |
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| Urquhart Castle in front of beautiful Loch Ness |
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| Henry the Hairy Coo |
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| Eilean Donan Castle |
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| Eilean Donan Castle |
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| Skye Backpackers hostel |
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| Skye YHA hostel |
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| Saucy Mary's Pub in Skye |
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| Justin & Jodie our friends from Seattle |
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| A view from the infamous Skye Bridge |
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| Chris feeding the Hairy Coo |
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| the blue water around Skye |
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| The Old Man of Stor |
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| A waterfall on the Isle of Skye |
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| A waterfall on the Isle of Skye |
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| Chris behind the waterfall |
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| The car we took to Armadale |
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| A baby lamb at the batik store |
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| Some Scottish mountains on the way to Oban |
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| The Glasgow YHA hostel |